Salsa, mojito, music at every turn, cigar smoke, classic American old-timers, colonial architecture and rich history, cult personalities, white sandy beaches, locals with smiles on their faces and much more. This is all Cuba. It’s been quite a few years since our two-week road trip with a rented car from Havana to Santiago, but I still remember everything very clearly. Might be because it is somehow unique and special, but also because this was my first visit to the Caribbean. In this new post, I have summarized our journey and added some more useful tips for traveling around Cuba.
Visited: Havanna, Pinar del Rio, Bay of Pigs, Cienfuegos, Topes de Collantes, Trinidad, Camaguey, Santiago de Cuba, Varadero
How: with a rented car
Stayed in: small hotels
We flew from Munich, Germany to Cuban VARADERO with the LTU airline, which no longer exists today. The tickets were, I remember, quite affordable, and the plane was full of German all-inclusive tourists and a couple of beautiful Cuban women going home to visit. From Varadero, we immediately drove onwards to HAVANA and chased the jetlag away for the first few days exploring the CUBAN CAPITAL and started our road trip a few days later. First we drove west, to PINAR DEL RIO and the beautiful landscape of VINALES, and then east all the way to SANTIAGO DE CUBA. In the meantime, we spent nights in CIENFUEGOS, TRINIDAD and CAMAGUEY and of course stopped in many other places along the way. The very last few days we splurged on some time off while enjoying the dream beaches in VARADERO, where we flew to from Santiago with an old Russian plane, which was an adventure in itself.
RENTING A CAR AND TRANSPORT ON CUBA
For an individual trip around Cuba, we decided to rent a car. This is usually one of our favorite forms of traveling around countries, because we are completely independent and free to go when and where we want. We traveled in a group of 5, so the price for the car was not a problem either. The bigger problem were the BAD ROADS and the car, which unfortunately broke down almost every day.
We visited as many mechanical workshops in Cuba as never before on a single trip. In addition to our car leaking gasoline, we had a couple of flat tyre situations and other inconveniences as well. Driving up hill was going very slowly, we barely did it, but somehow we arrived at the finish line every night before darkness. Wee turned these events into funny experiences and laughed at everything in the end, on this account we also met a lot of locals who helped us along the way – once they even took us on a family Sunday bus trip, while we had our car repaired at a local shop. Nowadays, the roads are certainly in a better condition, and car rental agencies certainly have a better offer, so I highly suggest renting a car here.
ACCOMMODATION, TRAVEL COSTS, CUBAN CULINARY AND OTHER
We mostly slept in SMALLER HOTELS and so-called CASA PARTICULAR private accommodation, in Havana and Santiago we chose a slightly LARGER HOTEL, and in Varadero we didn’t even have much of a choice but to take the AI PACKAGE IN A HUGE HOTEL ON THE BEACH. This is not exactly our style, but we somehow survived those 3 days.
TRAVEL COSTS were really quite low back in 2003. It probably doesn’t make sense to publish the exact prices now, because they have certainly risen. There were a lot of things for $ 1. Parking fee, mojito or some other cocktails, street snacks, entrance fee to museums, all for $ 1 which was rather funny sometimes we already knew the price before seeing it.
As for CUBAN CULINARY EXPERIENCE, however, we were a little bit disappointed. Not because what we ate wouldn’t taste good but because the food just wasn’t there. Restaurants often ran out of products like meat or fish, or they had really tiny portions. As much as I like to eat, I can also stand a long period of time without food, but somehow I was really often hungry over there. This is certainly different now, I believe that the import of various products today is not such a problem as it was then. But we thereforewe had regular street snacks and enjoyed the excellent cocktails daily. I have certainly never drunk so many mojitos as in Cuba. A huge contrast to this shortage were, of course, the last three days in Varadero, where we almost had a stroke from all the abundance of food at the hotel. I admit that it was lovely to eat brie for breakfast, but at the same time it was also a disgusting feeling knowing people throughout the countryside had not enough food while the food was probably being thrown away in such hotels. Such a huge and obvious contrast somehow.
Otherwise, Cuba is the queen of music, dance and general positives. In Cuba, you are somehow in a good mood, even if the car breaks down day after day. Communicating with the locals in our broken Spanish or their broken English is of course unforgettable. If we add dreamy white sandy beaches, charming old town with colonial architecture and cult American cars, we get one very special travel experience.
HAVANA | vibrant Cuban vapital city
‘So we started this trip with a few days visit to the lively CUBAN CAPITAL HAVANA, which immediately impressed us. We saw all the IMPORTANT SIGHTS, walked around the famous MARKETS and promenades, also visited some MUSEUMS, a CIGAR FACTORY and the famous PARLIAMENT, smoked cigars and had fun during the pompous TROPICANA DANCE PERFORMANCE, took evening walks on MALECON PROMENADE and admired the amazing colonial architecture. Here are some of Havana best spots to visit.
LA HABANA VIEJA
The most charming part of the city is definitely LA HABANA VIEJA or old Havana. Narrow streets, cobbled squares, beautiful colorful Baroque – Art Nouveau facades (some really beautifully restored, others half-decaying but still interesting), courtyards and churches in this tourist and most famous part of the city are also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
PLAZA VIEJA and PLAZA DE ARMAS
Both squares are located in the area of old Havana and are surrounded by beautiful buildings. On and around PLAZA DE ARMAS you can visit the NATIONAL MUSEUM (Museo National), the CITY MUSEUM (Museo de la Ciudad), the PALACE Palacio de los Capitanes, the TOBACCO MUSEUM, the FORTRESS Castillo de la Real Fuerza and much more.
Near the beautiful PLAZA VIEJA square you can also visit the MUSEUM OF PERFUMES and the AQUARIUM, otherwise there are really a lot of RESTAURANTS and BARS, as well as lots of accommodation options, galleries and shops.
PLAZA DE LA CATEDRAL and SAN CRISTOBAL CATHEDRAL
Today’s square in front of the mighty CATHEDRAL is one of the 5 OLDEST SQUARES IN OLD HAVANA and is actually one of the location of one of the oldest settlements in Havana. Ships were once built here, but over time the place grew into an important colonial residential area. The buildings around the square impressd us once again, but of course the main star is the 18th century cathedral.
MUSEO DE LA REVOLUTION AND OTHER MUSEUMS
We also visited a couple of museums, among which the MUSEUM OF THE REVOLUTION impressed us the most. In addition to the museum being founded in the OLD PRESIDENTIAL PALACE, which is beautiful on its own, the museum itself is nicely presenting the story of CUBAN REVOLUTION and the FIGHT FOR INDEPENDENCE. Knowing about Cuban history is fairly important for a better experience of the country, its culture and people. From torture devices, historical documents, photographs, uniforms, weapons and wax figures of FIDEL CASTRO and CHE GUEVARA, old vehicles, an army plane and much more are also on display.
OTHER MUSEUMS that you can visit in Havana are for example, the following: CITY MUSEUM, MUSEUM OF COLONIAL ART, NATIONAL MUSEUM MUSEUM OF RUM, AFRICAN HOUSE, PHARMACEUTICAL MUSEUM, FINCA VIGIA (former residence of E. Hemingway), JOSE MARTI HOUSE, NAPOLEONIC MUSEUM, military forts and other smaller museums.
EL CPAITOLIO
THE FORMER HEADQUARTERS OF THE GOVERNMENT, from 1929 until the revolution, were located in this beautiful neoclassical – Art Nouveau building, which with its huge dome is reminiscent of the American Capitol Hill in Washington D.C. The Capitol is located along the main road on the outskirts of Old Havana, and for a fee we could easily visit the interesting interior and took a look at the magnificent chambers, halls and courtyards.
CIGAR FACTORIES
Cuba is also famous for its production (and consumption) of cigars, so we were happy to visit one of the CIGAR FACTORIES in Havana. We were able to walk around the production halls and exchange friendly smiles with the workers who MANUALLY ROLL CIGARS according to the traditional procedure, while happily smoking already rolled ones and swinging their hips to Cuban music. Everything seems synchronised, happy and relaxed. All Cuban cigars are, unlike some other manufacturers, handmade from start to finish. We also sweated a lot during the visit, as there is no air conditioning in the factories, we also could not miss all the photographs and statues of Cuban leaders on just about every wall.
Of course we ended our tour with visiting the cigar store, where we bought some for home. Well, to be fair, we tried a couple of them already while in Cuba, it somehow fit into the whole atmosphere and experience. We visited the PARTAGAS factory, and you can also visit ROMEO Y JULIETA or LA CORONA.
MUSIC, DANCE AND MOJITO
Music and dance are part of everyday life in Cuba, so you´ll get a lot of these two while travelling around the country. Cuba is the cradle of many dances, including the most famous SON, MAMBO, RUMBA and of course CUBAN SALSA. In different cities we also visited several times the so- called houses of music or CASAS DE MUSICA.
There are several theories on where mojito actually originates, but for the most part Havana is considered the birthplace of this yummy cocktail, so I recommend trying at least one while in Cuba. TRADITIONAL CUBAN MOJITO is prepared with five ingredients: white rum, cane sugar, lime juice, fresh mint leaves and soda. Served with crushed ice. Otherwise, nowadays there are a whole bunch of variations of this popular cocktail, with the addition of various fresh fruit juices or pieces of fruit.
TROPICANA SHOW
We also had a taste of nightlife in Havana, including attending the CULT DANCE PERFORMANCE at the EL TROPICANA nightclub, which first opened its doors back in 1939. It was also the most expensive evening of the entire trip, but still easily affordable for us and definitely a very special experience worth all the dollars. This very special location is located in the LUXURIOUS TROPICAL GARDENS in Villa Mina near the military airport.
The whole show seemed to me like an interesting mix between cabaret, carnival and New Year’s Eve celebration – there was no shortage of drinks and food, we all danced to loud music. Although it might sound like a tourist trap there were quite a lot of locals as well and it was a rather authentic experience actually.
PINAR DEL RIO | the western most province with wonderful Unesco Vinales Valley
After the first days in Havana, we picked up the car we had booked before leaving home and first drove west, to the province of PINAR DEL RIO. What a contrast compared to Havana! We loved the relaxed rural KARST PROVINCE with endless with tobacco plantations,, its lush countryside with hills and valleys. Especially the VINALES VALELY which is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
In addition to the many opportunities for HIKING and CLIMBING, there are some more unusual sights, such as massive ROCK PAINTINGS with depictions of ancient marine organisms, dinosaurs and human beings.
HISTORICAL PIG´S BAY | neuspešna invazija leta 1961
On the way to CIENFUEGOS we stopped at another historically important place, namely PIG´S BAY, which definitely looks nicer than it sounds. The bay is most famous for the FAILED OPERATION by opponents of Castro’s ideas, which was supported and funded by the US government.
CIENFUEGOS | lovely smaller town with a promenade and central lively plaza
Cienfuegos is another beautiful, once strategically very important, smaller town, the center of which is easy to explore on foot. You can see most of the sights and enjoy the city in just one day, but if you have more time it´s even better. Most of the happenings and famous buildings, shops and restaurants are located around the lush JOSE MARTI PARK, which is definitely the heart of the city. Next to the park are, among others, the CITY CATHEDRAL, the Catedral de la Purisma Concepcion, the GOVERNMENT PALACE and the THEATER.
One of the most beautiful buildings next to the park is definitely the bright blue FERRER PALACE from the 19th century, from the top of which there is a beautiful view of the city. You can also walk along the main city entrance PASEO EL PRADO right to the end of the cape stretching into the peaceful lagoon PUNTA GORDA – beautiful sunsets in the evening here, and along the way you can admire the exceptional LUXURIOUS CITY VILLAS.
TOPES DE COLLANTES | beautiful nature park close to Trinidad town
On the way to TRINIDAD, we drove through a beautiful and climatically nicer parts of Cuba, the TOPES DE COLLANTES NATURE PARK, which stretches at an altitude of between 800 and over 1000 meters above sea level.
The SIERRA ESCAMBRAY mountain range offers many HIKING TRAILS and VIEWPOINTS, as well as beautiful WATERFALLS and NATURAL POOLS. It was here that our rented car bothered us the most, we could really barely drive the road over the hills, so unfortunately there was no time for a longer stop.
TRINIDAD | charming colonial Unesco town
Apart from Havana, we liked Trinidad the most of all the cities on Cuba. Above all Trinidad is much smaller than the capital and therefore somehow more endearing. Here we could have easily spend another extra day and wander aimlessly through the beautiful cobbled streets, where the fairy-tale colorful colonial houses do not end.
Trinidad, together with the nearby valley VALLE DE LOS INGENIOS (more about the latter below) is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List and I warmly recommend that you take at least 2 days to visit and be sure to sleep at least once. THE SUGAR CANE TRADE was once the main industry of the city of Trinidad, which is generally one of the best-preserved cities of that period.
PLAZA MAJOR, in the photo above, is the most famous square and together with the buildings around it, it is a great example of SPANISH COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE. The main emphasis on the square is given by the CITY CATHEDRAL, but there are also many of the CASA DE MUSICA I mentioned above, where you can dance to live music and / or just drink a mojito.
PLAYA ANCON | amazing white sandy beaches near Trinidad
This white sandy 4-kilometer beach, considered ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL IN CUBA, is located only about 20 kilometers south of the city of TRINIDAD and is a popular spot for both locals (especially on weekends) and tourists. Already at the time of our visit it was possible to rent deck chairs, there were also a couple of beach bars. Great choice for a couple of hours lying in the sun or a quick dip in the water.
VALLE DE LOS INGENIOS | sladkorne plantaže in kolonialna posestva v treh dolinah
The Valle de los Ingenios, also known as the ‘SUGAR MILL VALLEY’, is an approximately 12 km long set of three valleys (San Luis, Santa Rosa and Meyer valley) near the city of TRINIDAD, along with which the area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The valleys were the center of SUGAR PRODUCTION in the 18th and 19th centuries, when around 50 mills were in operation around here.
Since there was no time for everything, we decided to visit the CENTRAL PALACE, where we were able to climb the beautiful 45m high VIEWING TOWER from 1816 and see the huge bell tower, sugar mill, gardens and houses which belong to the estate.
CAMAGUEY | easy going vibes and large number of city churches
Our next stop was the interesting and somehow much less touristy town of CAMAGUEY, where we walked through a maze of streets past countless squares and churches surrounded by a mix of beautifully restored, but also sadly decaying colonial buildings. I believe that at least most of them have been restored until today so it must look a little bit different.
SANTIAGO DE CUBA | the second largest Cuban city
THE SECOND LARGEST CUBAN CITY was waiting for us in the sun and now we are a little happy that we just reached the last destination by car, had a little better lunch and saw the main sights of the city without a car on a good day before flying back to Havana.
Pictured above is the CITY CATHEDRAL (Catdral de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion) with a lively square in front of it and interesting buildings around the square, as is usual in all Cuban cities. Here, too, we visited some museums (we really liked the historic HOUSE OF DIEGO VELZQUEZ), the botanical gardens and attended the last TRADITIONAL DANCE PERFORMANCES.
For the very last drive before we returned the car, we paid a visit to the mighty fortress CASTILLO DE SAN PEDRO DE LA ROCA DEL MORRO about 10 kilometers from Santiago. This one is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List and we were also impressed by the beautiful views and loved the pleasant sea breeze.
VARADERO | the largest square in front of the cathedral
Last but not least, Varadero – a mecca for all who love PARADISE SAND BEACHES and ALL INCLUSIVE HOTELS. Probably nowadays you can also get cheaper or simpler accommodation, but at the time of our visit these hotels were somehow the most obvious choice.
Of course, Cuba has a lot of great places with beautiful beaches, so you can certainly spend a couple of beach somewhere else too. At that time, Varadero was the most famous and popular, so we decided on it also because our flights were to and from there, so it was the most practical in our case. Even though we are not AI people and normally do not go to such hotels, I can’t lie, the beach is fantastic, especially since this was my first contact with the TURQUOISE CARIBBEAN SEA, I remembered it even more.
PIN FOR LATER
