In October 2025, we set off on a new overland route east with our LR Defender camper, but since we had a total of seven weeks of time, we could afford another short plane trip in between. Lukas, my oldest son, had just two weeks of school holidays at the time and we wanted to spend it together, somewhere warm. The decision was quickly made – we are flying to Egypt from Istanbul! This was my fourth visit, but the time for everyone else. In 10 days on the road we visited Cairo & Giza, explored the interesting pottery village of Tunis, admired the ancient whale skeletons in the Wadi Hitan National Park, slept in the desert, drove through the Suez Canal and finally camped on the beaches in the Ras Mohammed National Park, close to the famous Sharm el-Sheikh on the Sinai Peninsula. It was a great mix of learning about culture and history and relaxing by the Red Sea. We traveled by car the entire time, and we organized the trip with the help of Nada and Talaat and their travel agency Lets go to Egypt.
Where: Cairo, Tunis (Fayoum), NP Wadi Hitan, Wadi el Rayan, Suez, Ras Sedr, Ras Mohamed, Sharm el-Sheikh
How: plane, car
Accommodation: hotels, guesthouses, camping in the desert and on the beach in tents
WE TRAVELLED IN EGYPT, WHEN MILA WAS 4 YEARS OLD AND LEO 1 YEAR OLD. READ MORE ABOUT EGYPT WITH KIDS IN THIS POST.
Some of you know that Nada, who has been enthusiastically discovering the land of the pharaohs for over 20 years, is my aunt. Our visit to Egypt was therefore also a family visit, as we travelled together the entire time. And what could be better than discovering the charms of foreign lands together with the locals? Our adventure was truly authentic and we experienced many interesting things.
FROM ISTANBUL TO CAIRO | evening flight with Turkish Airlines
One day before Lukas’ 14th birthday, we were sitting at Istanbul airport with a sinfully expensive glass of draft beer and nervously waiting for the plane from Hanover to land. We had organized everything so that Lukas would fly to Istanbul by himself, we would drive there by car, and then we would be on the same flight to Cairo together. It was his first independent flight, without a special escort from a flight attendant, and everything went perfectly. We flew with Turkish Airlines, the four of us paid around 800 euros for tickets (2 adults, one child and one lap infant), going there to Cairo and returning from Sharm el-Sheikh. We had an evening flight, it was a really long day behind us, but the excitement about the upcoming adventures kept our spirits up.
After landing, we head to the visa line, which can be obtained “on arrival”, but we managed to get to the VIP counter, so we were outside really quickly. Nada and Talaat were waiting for us at the arrivals hall with fresh drinks and snacks for the ride to our hotel. Despite the late hour (we arrived at the hotel around 1 am), we enjoyed a glass of wine on the roof terrace with a view of the glorious pyramids, glowing under colorful spotlights, to celebrate the start of this holidays.
CAIRO | the pyramids in Giza and the new GEM museum
Our first full day in Cairo started with a delicious Egyptian breakfast on a spectacular terrace, while admiring the mighty pyramids, now bathed in mystical morning mists. It was a rather short night, but since we had a few locations to visit, we didn’t hesitate too much.
First on the agenda were the world famous PYRAMIDS OF GIZA, which we easily walked to from the hotel. Many people imagine that the pyramids stand somewhere in the middle of the desert, but in fact the urban infrastructure has spread from the center of Cairo for a good 10km around, including all the way to Giza. So we actually don’t even feel like we are talking about two cities. THE NECROPOLIS OF GIZA is best known for its three larger pyramids, the PYRAMID OF CHEOPS, CHEPHREN and MYKERIN, but in the complex there is also the mighty SPHINX, smaller pyramids and temples, cemeteries, tombs, villages and walls.
The sun was scorching and more and more visitors were gathering, so for the best experience, I highly recommend visiting in the early morning hours and entering at the entrance by the sphinx (SPHINX GATE), which is smaller and less crowded. We also started right here. You can move around the entire complex on foot or with special electric shuttle buses that have several stops. We combined both and left the necropolis at the main entrance (GREAT GATE) after the tour.
You can explore the necropolis on your own, or with a guide. We were accompanied by the lovely Malak throughout the day to various locations in Cairo, with whom we had agreed in advance to spontaneously adjust the length of the tours and explanations to our children and their mood, and it really worked out great. We learned a lot of interesting anecdotes and facts, refreshed our knowledge of Egyptian history and culture, and we also didn’t have to wait in lines for tickets.
Entering the complex, at least at this smaller entrance, can be a bit chaotic, but we soon made our way past all the checkpoints and the long line of souvenir stalls to the famous SPHINX limestone, a mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head of a man. One of the largest and oldest statues in the world unexpectedly impressed us with its majesty, I had always imagined it to be much smaller.
We walked a little further, then hopped on an air-conditioned shuttle that took us to the PYRAMID OF CHEOPUS, also known as the GREAT PYRAMID or PYRAMID OF KUFU. We couldn’t help but be amazed by the size of the individual blocks! Lukas and I also set out to explore the interior and climbed the so-called GREAT GALLERY through really narrow, dark and stuffy corridors all the way to the TOMB OF PHARAOH KUFU.
A truly unique experience, but I really do not recommend it to anyone who is claustrophobic, has difficulty breathing, and is not used to walking on ladders. I do not have these problems myself, but I was still really happy when we breathed fresh air again. Don’t forget, to visit the interior you need to buy a special ticket, already at the main entry points.
The others waited for us in the meantime at a nearby café, where they cooled off with ice cream. We also looked at the PYRAMID OF KHEPHREN from the outside, and to end the visit we had lunch at the excellent restaurant 9 PYRAMIDS LOUNGE with a spectacular view. We left the complex at the main entrance, where a car was already waiting for us, and we hurried to the next location – the GEM MUSEUM.
VISITING THE PYRAMIDS WITH CHILDREN? So it seemed quite feasible to us with a 4-year-old and a 1-year-old, but of course we adjusted the visit a little in terms of time. Our freshly baked 14-year-old is already a full-grown adult. Those of you who are very interested in history and archaeology will easily spend a couple of hours more here. I recommend being at the entrance as soon as they open, take enough water, sunscreen and hats with you. Instead of a stroller, take baby carriers. I really do not recommend visiting the inside of the pyramids with small children.
In Cairo, we really wanted to see the famous GEM (GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM) – a brand new museum located just a few kilometers from the pyramids which is replacing the previously existing Ancient Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square. GEM officially opened two weeks after our visit, but its doors were already open to visitors for a few days in October. We caught the right day and together with Malak we visited all the levels and rooms, but unfortunately we missed one of the greatest treasures – Tutankhamun’s 11kg gold death mask, which had not yet been moved from the old museum.
Leo slept through the entire tour in the stroller, while Mila was surprisingly enthusiastic about exploring with us. Again, our guide’s explanations made the museum visit even more enjoyable, so I recommend a guided tour here too, if you are at least a little interested in Egyptian history. The museum, which took over 20 years to build, is also a real architectural gem, its surroundings are beautifully landscaped, and you definitely have to visit it if you find yourself in Cairo.
At this point we were already quite tired and full of new impressions, so we decided to return to the hotel. This meant we didn’t walk around the famous Khan al Khalili square in the center of Cairo, but driving there and back would have taken up too much time. Since it was Lukas’ birthday, we made him a surprise cake in the restaurant on the hotel terrace and had a toast with a view of the pyramids at sunset. A great end to the first day!
We stayed at the GREAT PYRAMIDS INN HOTEL for two nights, but there are a lot of other hotels in this area with roof terraces which also offer great views of the pyramids.
TUNIS | Egypt’s pottery capital in Fayoum oasis south of Cairo
One last breakfast with a view of the pyramids and it was time to leave the chaotic capital. There was not enough time for everything, so we will definitely come again. This time we were more drawn to smaller villages and nature. We made our first stop on the outskirts of Cairo in a huge supermarket, where we stocked up on food, traditional snacks and diapers for the coming days, and the second stop at LAKE QARUN, just under 100km south of Giza. Here we prepared ourselves a real EGYPTIAN PICNIC, with local delicacies from shops and roadside stalls.
The landscape in the FAYOUM OASIS became less and less urban, more green, lush and rural. On the SW side of the lake, we turned into the beautiful VILLAGE OF TUNIS, which of course should not be confused with the capital of the country of Tunisia. After a total of just under three hours of driving from Cairo, we settled in the charming Olive Tree Guesthouse. To the delight of our kids there was also a swimming pool, but the main reason for visiting Tunis was hidden somewhere else.
This place has a very interesting story. Founded in the 1960s, it experienced its heyday about 20 years later, when a Swiss lady named Evelyne Porret chose it as her home. She started with POTTERY right here, and over time she brought her skills closer to the local population, especially women and children. She also founded a POTTERY SCHOOL, where she ran workshops, and this handicraft soon became the trademark of the village of Tunis. The lady in question is no longer with us today, but her spirit is present everywhere on the colorful streets, and her school is still in operation.
We were excited to explore this place on foot, peeking into the courtyards, galleries, and studios of artists as we walked around. Some of them kindly allowed us to take a closer look at their work, and twice we even sat down at the pottery wheel ourselves.
We haven’t bought unnecessary souvenirs on our travels for a long time, but here we really couldn’t resist all the handmade cups and plates. By the end of the day, we had collected a few really nice pieces that have been in regular use in our new kitchen back home for a few months now.
In Tunis, Nada and Talaat took us to this really cute restaurant, which is a bit hidden on one of the side streets. We certainly wouldn’t have found it on our own and in moments like these we were especially grateful for our Egyptian connection. As a result, we really experienced a lot of authentic things on the entire trip. Again, a huge traditional feast awaited us and with full stomachs we collapsed tiredly into bed that evening.
Well, on the way to the accommodation we stopped a few more times. Among other things, the two younger children discovered an interesting local game, namely throwing small balls of clay at the walls of the houses. Sometimes they really don’t need any toys to have a good time. They don’t even have to speak the same language, but they all get along.
WADI AL HITAN NATIONAL PARK | “The valley of the whales”
A new day, a new adventure! We spent the next two days in the desert and I was really looking forward to it. The desert is always a very special place for me. Everything is so peaceful and quiet there that, whether you like it or not, you calm down and clear your mind. And of course, before leaving, we first had another excellent TRADITIONAL BREAKFAST. Usually, there was an omelette, beans, tomatoes and something sweet on the table in the morning, and of course Egyptian pita bread.
During this trip to Egypt we had a slightly larger van, but for these two days we had to exchange it for two 4×4 TOYOTAs. Shortly after leaving Tunis we turned off the asphalt road and drove for quite a while on the sand. First on a more compact gravel surface, and later on completely soft orange dunes. As always, it was really adrenaline-pumping and the drive to the first destination itself was the highlight of the day. The landscape became increasingly wild, from the flatter part we finally arrived in a truly unique and varied landscape, where we were also impressed by the DESERT ROCK FORMATIONS.
WADI AL HITAN, or the so-called “VALLEY OF THE WHALES”, is a beautiful NATIONAL PARK in the Egyptian WESTERN DESERT, also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest and most important sites of its kind in the world. Would you expect that in the middle of the desert, in Egypt, far from the sea, you can see ANCIENT WHALE FOSSILS? I admit, I had never heard of this gem before.
First we watched a short film and exhibition at the visitor center, then we set off on a 3 KM LONG PATH zigzagging among numerous, around 40 million year old skeletons protruding from the sand. The fossils here are also key evidence of the evolution of whales and testify to their transition from land mammals to sea creatures.
The landscape itself is simply stunning and there weren’t too many visitors, plus we all got lost on the hiking trails. However, I recommend visiting in the early morning hours, when it’s not too crowded and the sun isn’t at its strongest. Visiting the national park is also possible as a day trip from Cairo, but it’s quite a drive. Before we pushed on, we of course had lunch and a little rest in the local Berber restaurant.
THE VALLEYS OF “DESERT WATERMELONS” | Wadi el Battikh and the small watermelon valley
On the northern side of LAKE QUARUN is WADI EL BATTIKH, the spectacular “Watermelon Valley”, which got its name from the unique ROUNDED PETRIFIED ROCKS, which were shaped by wind and erosion over time. This time we left the mentioned valley out of the itinerary because a visit would have meant a significant logistical detour, but that afternoon after lunch we visited the so-called SMALL VALLEY OF DESERT WATERMELONS, which is located not far from the Wadi al Hitan National Park. The road to there was again extremely spectacular and we could not stop looking at all these interesting desert rock outcrops. We also happened to have a real watermelon with us, which actually matched the size of the countless round stones scattered across the desert plain.
Longer hikes are also possible here, but we decided to just make a short stop, as longer treks through the desert with such small children are more of a challenge. On the way to our accommodation, we stopped at one of the mighty rock formations, where we, the bigger children, climbed through a crack and looked at an interesting cave.
QUSOOR EL ARAB CAMP | spending a night camping in tents in the desert
After a total of four hours of driving, mostly on sand, we arrived at our DESERT CAMP late in the afternoon. Did I mention that this was probably my favorite day of the trip?
These desert camps are all designed in a similar way. We had one larger half opened COMMON TENT, where breakfast and dinner are served, and we could socialize here between meals and in the evening. Everything is simpler, you sit on the floor, on pillows and rugs that are spread out right on the sand. FOR CHILDREN, this is paradise anyway, because the desert is like one huge sandbox, and everything is so soft that they can’t hurt themselves even if they fall. Next to this larger tent is a simple kitchen, where our hosts prepared delicious meals, coffee and tea. Then there is the obligatory fire pit, a place for a campfire around which areas for lounging are made with rugs.
This camp is located between two high dunes, so it is slightly protected from the wind, the views all around are really the most beautiful thing you can wish for during a morning or evening walk. There was only one other family staying here that night so it was really quiet. SLEEPING TENTS are set up as needed. Tent frames are usually permanently erected, and then, depending on the reservations, tent materials are placed over them. We also had a toilet in the tent but the showers located at the kitchen were shared. It gets quite cold in the desert at night, but their thick blankets kept us warm.
Running in the desert at sunset, SANDBOARDING on the dunes, another delicious traditional dinner, conversations by a warm fire under a million stars and sleeping in a simple tent “in the middle of nowhere”. It’s a dream! Sorry for the photo spam, but I just have to add these memories so they don’t get lost.
WADI EL RAYAN | El Rayan lake also known as “Magic lake” in Fayoum oasis
It’s hard to decide whether the desert is more beautiful in the evening or in the morning, so I really recommend staying overnight and judging for yourself. Running through the dunes in your pajamas before breakfast is really the best thing. We had a lot of driving ahead of us that day, so it was all the more important to stretch our legs before we moved on.
After a simple, but again delicious breakfast, we made our first move to two famous lakes with the common name EL RAYAN. After less than an hour’s drive from our desert camp, we found ourselves in this beautiful, contrasting NATURE RESERVE’s landscape, which is also known as a refuge for many birds. Here we also find the ONLY WATERFALL IN EGYPT, which is a popular spot for many video and commercial filming. It’s a nice stop if you are visiting the FAYOUM OASIS.
A little while later we were back in TUNIS VILLAGE, where we unloaded our dusty backpacks and other junk from our Toyotas and loaded everything back into our van. This two-day trip to the desert was short but sweet, but at this point we were all more than ready for some beach fun. Since we had been working most of the summer, we really wanted to soak in some sea vibesm during our Egyptian adventure. And so we decided to visit the SINAI PENINSULA.
FROM WESTERN DESERT TO THE SINAI PENINSULA | Suez canal and several check points
The journey to the SINAI PENINSULA was quite long and we spent most of this day on the road. In total, we “only” did about 400km, but due to numerous CHECKPOINTS (especially in Sinai, there are a lot of them, you have to show documents every time, sometimes also accommodation reservations and such papers) and TRAFFICJAMS AROUND CAIRO, this move took up a significant part of our day.
But the ride wasn’t boring. We saw an interesting part of southern Cairo, including some huge cemeteries that are kind of cities of their own, we got a last glimpse of the pyramids from afar, and we were also amazed by all the modern neighborhoods of the NEW CAIRO CITY area. The city is expanding at lightning speed and completely new urban areas are being created here, where mainly wealthy young families are escaping from life in the chaotic center of the capital. We also used one of the stops to visit the local market, where we restocked with fruit and snacks for the following days.
WE ALSO CROSSED THE SUEZ CANAL, an almost 200km long artificial canal, also known as the ARABIAN GATE between the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. After successfully passing thorough security checks we drove through the kilometre-long AHMED HAMDI UNDERSEA TUNNEL to the other side.
RAS SEDR | our first stop at the Red sea
A little further from the seaside town of SUEZ, we ended the day in the APARTMENT COMPLEX in RAS SEDR on the RED SEA. This part of the Sinai Peninsula is not known as the most attractive in terms of beautiful beaches and tourist infrastructure, but due to the fact that we were the only foreigners in this place we had a really interesting and more authentic experience.
Our apartment was really spacious and well-equipped – three bedrooms, two bathrooms, two balconies, a spacious living room and a kitchen. Many Cairo residents have their own holiday apartments in the area, and some of the apartments are also rented out for tourist purposes. But most Egyptians come here on holiday in the summer months, so it was really quiet in October. After swimming in the pools, we went to a surprisingly delicious dinner, where we were treated like kings by the staff.
RAS MOHAMED NATIONAL PARK | 4 days camping on the beach
This was our last day which included a longer drive, but time went by quickly because of all the amazing views of the vast SINAI DESERT PROVINCE. I was last on this peninsula in 2009 and I remember being completely impressed by the nature here back then as well.
Many people associate Sinai with only one place, namely SHARM EL-SHEIKH, which has secured the status of a tourist mecca on the Red Sea over the past decades. I myself have visited it twice before, but this time I really wanted to find a wilder alternative to all those megalomaniacal AI complexes. Those of you who already know us a little, know that constant animation, kids’ clubs, the same food for dinner, crowds on the beaches and loud music do not exactly fit our idea of an ideal vacation.
We could have lasted a day, maybe two. But this time we really wanted peace. An empty beach. Sunsets and sunrises, without any other unnecessary pomp. And when I saw that Let’s Go to Egypt also offered CAMPING IN RAS MOHAMED NATIONAL PARK, I decided that we definitely had to try.
I have been to RAS MOHAMMED National Park, at the southernmost point of the peninsula, a good 10 km from Sharm el Sheikh, before, but only as part of a day trip, where we spent most of our time underwater. At that time, there were no such camps where you could spend the night. We also visited the MANGROVE and a few other interesting points in the park area. This time we were more stationary and spent all days on the beach in front of our tents.
So for the next 4 DAYS we enjoyed the beach in such simple tents. One for the four of us, one for Lukas, one for Nada and Talaat. Is there anything better than a morning walk with a cup of hot coffee by the crystal clear warm sea enjoying the sound of the waves? In fact, we experience this many times on our Defender trips when we go wild camping, but on plane trips such accommodations are really hard to find nowadays.
BEACH TENTS are really simple and they are set up as needed, depending on the number of reservations. Each one has two mats, blankets and sheets. We didn’t get cold at night, but we didn’t stay inside during the day because it was hot. There is no private toilet, running water, electricity. However, a PUBLIC TOILET is available a few hundred meters away, at a larger parking lot for day visitors. Simple showers are available at the beach. Next to the tents there is a LARGER COVERED AREA that serves as a DINING ROOM. You can stay here at any time during the day and evening. We made ourselves quite comfortable and arranged a corner for playing next to the dining table, since this was the only place with enough shade during the day. There are no trees on the beach. Behind this area is a simple KITCHEN, where they prepare your daily meals. It is possible to charge electronic devices, but I still recommend bringing power banks with you.
The accommodation INCLUDES 3 MEALS A DAY, breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food is delicious! And there is more than enough of everything so you will not be hungry. In addition, you have a small refrigerator where you can store something extra. We brought several types of fruit, beer and wine with us, because alcohol is not available here.
Lovely vacation indeed! However, our idyll was shattered for a few hours a day by a few dozen tourists who came here for a DAY SNORKELING TRIP IN THE RED SEA.
From Sharm, day trips to Ras Mohamed NP are possible by land or by sea. If you choose a land trip, you might end up right here! Wearing life jackets, you and the other hundred fellow daytrippers will jump into the sea, leaving sunscreen foam bubbles behind you and after about half an hour of splashing around with masks, you will crowd into simple huts, where you will be served freshly baked fish with a side dish, to finish, you will buy a bracelet or two and hop on a minibus back to your air-conditioned hotel. And all those who are camping in the bay, we will have our peace again. Just kidding, although there is also some truth in this.
THE UNDERWATER WORLD here is really beautiful though. In addition, it is right in front of your nose, you actually swim only about ten meters from the shore and you can already admire the colorful fish that scurry among the colorful corals. Although I am not a diver, I have already swum underwater with a mask in many parts of the world and I can easily say that the Red Sea is one of the most beautiful destinations for observing the marine kingdom.
Sunset walks. Barefoot all the time. Salty hair. Tasty dinners. And then conversations around the campfire, with millions of stars above us. Yes, you have to love nature a little and not overcomplicate things if you choose this type of accommodation. But for us, this easily beats any hotel.
SHARM EL SHEIKH | our last night in Egypt before returning to Türkiye
It was almost time to say goodbye to Egypt, and for our last night we chose a mid-range hotel in the popular NAAMA BAY in SHARM EL-SHEIKH, as it was closer to the airport. After a last breakfast on the beach and a morning swim, we shook the sand off our belongings and picked up our passports at the checkpoint when leaving the park. These had to stay safe with the officials for the entire duration of our camping trip. When entering the national park, you also pay a DAILY ENTRANCE FEE.
We first stopped in OLD SHARM, where there are a few more authentic neighborhoods and where mostly Egyptians live, as well as those who come to Sharm for work. We saw an interesting MOSQUE, walked around and bought some culinary delicacies to take home, then stopped at one of the more authentic RESTAURANTS for lunch.
Since I haven’t been here in a really long time, I was curious to see what the iconic FARSHA CAFE bar looks like these days. This multi-storey, cliff-top bar with a strong bohemian feel is also a popular viewpoint, especially at sunset, and it also has a special charm in the evening when the many lights are turned on.
We chose the popular Naama Bay because it is the most vibrant part with lots of restaurants and shops within walking distance from the hotels. Our hotel also had a pool and direct access to the beach. For our taste it was all far too crowded, too loud and simply too much of everything, but tastes vary and many tourists enjoy themselves immensely here. But we survived for that short time.
After swimming, we went for a walk in the evening. It may have been a bit early, but the streets seemed much emptier than during my last visit, especially when compared to the completely crowded beach that afternoon. Of course, a little more personal space didn’t bother us. We succumbed to buying a few small things for our little missy and searched for a restaurant for our last dinner.
This time we chose Lebanese and none of the many dishes served disappointed us. There are many different restaurants to choose from in Sharm, so everyone is sure to find something for themselves. On top of the great flavors, Leo slept peacefully in the stroller, so that I had free hands for a change and we ended our last day in Egypt with full hearts (and full stomachs).
FROM EGYPT TO TÜRKIYE | daytime flight to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines
Slightly sleep-deprived, we packed the last things in the morning, quickly ate a rather mediocre hotel breakfast, and drove to the airport, where we said goodbye to Nada and Talaat. We flew to Istanbul, where our beloved Defender awaited the four of us while Lukas had another connecting flight to Hanover because he had to go back to school. We had several more weeks of traveling through Turkey and Greece ahead. Once again, everything went according to plan these last 10 days and we have another great family trip behind us!
As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I have visited Egypt several times before. The first time I only had a beach holiday in Sharm el-Sheikh, the second time I explored the Sinai Peninsula, and the third time I experienced a Nile cruise with the addition of a short beach break in Hurghada and Marsa Alam. There are quite a few more places in this fascinating country marked on my map and we are already quietly planning our next family visit, most likely in the fall of 2027. Posts about my past holidays and trips to Egypt have of course been already published on the blog for a long time, you can find them by browsing the destinations categories in the menu.
If you are also tempted by a vacation in Egypt or need help organizing an individual trip to the land of the pharaohs, send an inquiry to info@gremovegipt.si or take a look at the website at the link below:
